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Thanks to a persistent case of aquaphobia, I've never tried surfing. However, I've done my share of snowboarding, and I am trying to imagine what it would be like to carve the slopes with several tons of avalanche chasing me down the mountain. First of all, I would have to hike to the top and wait to catch the biggest avalanche, getting pummeled by several in the process. Oh, and then try not to think too much about the abominable snowman poised to take a hunk out of my leg when I least expect it. Yeah. I'm stoked. I don't really 'get' surfing, but I stand in awe of it. It's impossible to avoid acknowledging the strength, timing, grace and heart-blazing courage required just to catch those enormous waves, let alone ride them smoothly without wiping out. Whether or not you're into water, 'Riding Giants' is a breathtaking film guaranteed to raise your pulse rate. Following the rise of big wave surfing from its ragtag roots in the fifties to the jet-ski boosted endorsement deals of today, 'Riding Giants' offers a fascinating look at surf culture in all its guts and glory--not to mention its sun-bleached hair, wave- toned bodies, and plenty of pre-cancerous skin cells. Although several world-class surfers are profiled, the one I find most amazing is Jeff Clark, a 43-year-old native of Half Moon Bay, California who is credited with discovering Mavericks, a notoriously gnarly big wave mecca twenty miles south of San Francisco. Clark spotted the monstrous waves from the cliffs of Half Moon Bay as a teenager. One day, he decided to paddle the half-mile in chilly ocean water to check it out. Never mind that he was too far out for his worried friend--or anyone else--to save him. Forget that these waves would turn out to be so huge that, years later, seasoned pros from Waimea would find them jaw-dropping. Disregard the razor-sharp rocks waiting to chew up anyone unfortunate enough to be slammed to the shore. Clark had his first of many ride-of-your-life experiences that day. He couldn't believe the power of it, the magic, the unimaginable thrill. He went out to surf that incredible vortex every day. Alone. For fifteen years. I'm guessing that his parents were either a) clueless about where he was, or b) powerless to prevent him from returning. He couldn't find anyone insane enough to join him. He wasn't doing it for the attention, for the chicks, for the cameras, or for the money. He was out there getting pounded for the sake of that big ol' grin on his face and the unfathomable sense of connection to something larger than himself. Clark was like some modern day ascetic, putting himself through tortuous rites and death defying acts of faith while living in seclusion. He became one with the water on a daily basis through rigorous attention and exhaustive exploration. I am humbled. I envy him. And I can't stop thinking about how most of us will never have this all-consuming passion or such a magnificent opportunity to experience oneness with anything. Jeff Clark may be crazy. He may be obsessed. But he is a man whose mindfulness has inspired and elevated him--and saved his skin on numerous occasions. We should all be so lucky to discover such a wondrous wave.
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Advice Home Business Technology Online Advertising Motivational Internet Marketing SEO Help Online Games Science Articles Happiness More Articles:1. How to Beat the After-Christmas Blues Christmas is an emotional storm, and next comes Valentine’s, so take a break. Move from emotion to thinking and action. 1.Start planning a Valentine’s Party, or Martin Luther King Party. If you were running a day late and a dollar behind for Christmas, learn from it. Budget and start sooner, but have the fun of another “party” on the horizon. NB: Planning is a cerebral activity, i.e., neocortex.2.Get active – add an extra hour to your daily workout. This creates physical energy, clears the mind,… 2. Self-doubt: An Obstacle to Success Reprint article in print or via the Internet with these requirements: => Keep article intact => Include byline with active link => Please send a courtesy copy of newsletter or URL to coaching@premeditatedlife.com => Ask for changes you'd like made to an article or bylineWord Count: 603Summary: Self-doubt is quite possibly the biggest obstacle that individuals must conquer in order to be successful; here are 3 tips to overcome it. =================================================================… 3. Do It Now Do it Now! Procrastination has to be the public enemy number one. Itis a career killer. It seems like an easy enough problem to overcome, doesn'tit? When you have something to do, do it now! This idea isn'tnew, intellectually challenging or in any way detrimentalto your health or well being. But, are you using the “do it now” philosophy? Are youcreating the habit of 'do it now”? The “do it now” habitis a universally accepted foundation of success. You willnot find any success author selling, “D… 4. Five Secrets to Creating a "Goal" Medal Life Five Secrets to Creating a Goal Medal LifeBy Ed Sykes ©2004The 2004 Olympics just ended in August. As always, it was an exciting event with its dramatic twists and turns, exhilarations, surprises, and disappointments as these great athletes performed at their peak in front of millions, if not billions, of fans for the glory of representing their country and possibly receiving a gold medal.You, too, can experience the same excitement in your life. What are you doing now to achieve your “goal” me… |